Xi’an Through My Eyes: A Visitor’s Approval Guide to the Must-Do, Must-Eat, and Must-Avoid

Okay, let’s be real: before I landed in Xi’an, I had a jumble of stereotypes in my head—“old city,” “terracotta warriors,” “maybe too touristy.” But after a week of wandering alleyways, sweating through history tours, and stuffing my face with noodles, I’m here to give it to you straight: Xi’an isn’t just a destination; it’s a vibe. And by “vibe,” I mean the kind that makes you cancel your post-trip nap plans because you have to find that one snack stall your rickshaw driver mentioned. This is my “visitor approval”—not some polished ad, but the messy, honest, “here’s-how-to-not-mess-up” guide from someone who’s been in your shoes.

Xi’an Through My Eyes: A Visitor’s Approval Guide to the Must-Do, Must-Eat, and Must-Avoid

First Things First: Getting Around—Don’t Let the City Size Scare You

Xi’an is big, like really big, but it’s also shockingly easy to navigate if you know the tricks. Skip the taxis during rush hour (7-9 AM, 5-7 PM)—traffic can turn a 20-minute ride into an hour of honking and frustration. Instead, lean on the metro: it’s clean, cheap (2-8 RMB per ride), and connects almost all key spots (airport, train stations, city center). Pro tip: Download the “Metro Xi’an” app for English schedules and real-time updates.

For shorter distances, use Didi (China’s Uber)—it’s cheaper than taxis and you can see the fare upfront. But if you’re feeling adventurous? Rent a shared bike! The city has bike lanes everywhere, and riding along the ancient city walls at sunset? Unbeatable. Just lock it properly—bike theft happens, but it’s rare if you use designated spots.

One last transport tip: If you’re heading to the Terracotta Army (a must!), skip the “tourist buses” at the train station—they’re overpriced and slow. Instead, take Bus 5 from the East Square of Xi’an Railway Station. It’s 1 RMB, takes 1 hour, and drops you right at the entrance. Trust me, your wallet will thank you.

Top Sights: Beyond the “Big Three” (But Do the Big Three Too)

Everyone knows the Terracotta Army, Huaqing Palace, and the City Walls—but here’s the thing: how you see them matters way more than that you see them.

Terracotta Army: Don’t Just Stare—Listen

Okay, the warriors are incredible. But let’s be honest: if you walk in alone, you’ll look at a row of clay soldiers, think “cool,” and leave 30 minutes later. Do this instead: Hire a licensed guide at the entrance (200-300 RMB for a group tour). They’ll tell you that the archers’ faces are all different, that the horses’ bridles were real bronze, and that the pits were only discovered in 1974 by a farmer digging a well. Suddenly, those clay figures aren’t just “old stuff”—they’re stories.

Pro tip: Start with Pit 1 (the biggest, most impressive), then Pit 2 (more detailed, with cavalry and infantry), and Pit 3 (the command center). Skip the “optional” 3D movie or “silk road” exhibition—they’re overpriced and cheesy.

City Walls: Ride, Don’t Walk (Unless You’re a Marathoner)

The walls are 14 km long—walking the whole thing is technically possible, but your feet will hate you. Rent a bike instead (50 RMB for 2 hours, 100 RMB for the whole day). My favorite route? Start at the South Gate, ride east to the East Gate, then loop back. The views of the city skyline mixing with old temples are chef’s kiss. Bonus: If you go at sunset, the lights turn on, and the city glows like a lantern.

Muslim Quarter: Eat First, Look Later

Everyone goes to Muslim Quarter for the “night market,” but here’s the secret: the real food is in the side alleys, not the main strip. When you enter, don’t stop at the first stall selling “famous” roujiamo (meat burgers). Instead, turn left onto Dapi Alley—you’ll find locals lined up at Lao Sun Family Roujiamo (30 RMB for 4, juicy, crispy, and no weird tourist markup).

Then, hunt for Paomo—bread soaked in lamb soup—at Tongshengxiang (near the Bell Tower). It’s a messy affair (you tear the bread yourself, then they pour soup over it), but it’s the warmest, most comforting meal you’ll have. Pro tip: Skip the “gluten-free” or “vegetarian” versions here—traditionally, it’s all about the lamb broth.

Oh, and don’t buy souvenirs in the main market. They’re overpriced and made in factories. If you want something real, head to the backstreets near the Great Mosque for hand-carved wooden masks or silk fans.

Food: Xi’an Will Make You Carbs-And-Meat Obsessed

Let’s be clear: Xi’an is a foodie paradise, but it’s not for the faint of heart. If you don’t like lamb, garlic, or carbs, well… maybe pack some snacks. But if you do? Prepare to gain 5 pounds (and not regret it).

• Roujiamo: Xi’an’s “hamburger.” Thinly sliced stewed pork or beef, stuffed in a crispy, sesame-seed bun. Lao Sun (Dapi Alley) and Zhang Roujiamo (near the Drum Tower) are non-negotiable.
• Yang Rou Paomo: Literally “bread soaked in lamb soup.” Tear the bread into small pieces, dunk it in rich, spicy broth, and top with tender lamb. Tongshengxiang (Bell Tower) is the OG, but Laomaichi (near the Muslim Quarter) has a spicier version.
• Biang Biang Noodles: These are wide—like, wider than your hand—hand-pulled noodles, tossed in chili oil, garlic, and vinegar. The name is a meme (the character “biang” has 57 strokes and is untypeable), but the taste is no joke. Biang Biang Noodle House (near the South Gate) serves it with pork or beef, and a side of pickled garlic to cut the richness.
• Hulatang (Spicy Soup): Not for beginners—this is a fiery broth with lamb, potatoes, and tofu, perfect for cold days. Liu Xin Hulatang (near the Muslim Quarter) is a local favorite; add extra chili if you dare.
• Sweet Stuff: Yes, Xi’an has sweets! Try sugar painting—liquid sugar poured into shapes like dragons or flowers—at the Muslim Quarter. Or grab a hongzao bing (juju cake)—a sticky, sweet rice cake with red dates—at Jianfu Lin (near the Bell Tower).

Food Pro Tip: Most street stalls only take cash (WeChat/Alipay are common, but some old-school places don’t). Bring 100-200 RMB in small bills—you’ll thank me when you’re staring at a steaming bowl of paomo and the vendor waves your phone away.

Where to Stay: Base Yourself for Maximum Fun

Location is everything in Xi’an. If you stay far out, you’ll waste hours commuting. Here’s the sweet spot: near the Bell Tower or Muslim Quarter. It’s central, walkable to most sights, and comes alive at night (but not too loud if you pick a side street).

• Budget: Backpacker Inn (near the South Gate)—dorm beds from 80 RMB, clean, and with a rooftop terrace.
• Mid-Range: Journey Inn (Muslim Quarter)—traditional courtyard rooms, 300-500 RMB, and the owner gives great food tips.
• Splurge: Shuyuan Hotel (near the Bell Tower)—a restored mansion with antique furniture, 800-1200 RMB, but worth it for the vibe.

Avoid staying near the train station unless you’re catching an early train—it’s chaotic and not very walkable.

Little Things That Make a Big Difference (The “Don’t Be That Tourist” List)

Xi’an is safe and friendly, but a little etiquette goes a long way:

• At the Great Mosque: Dress modestly (cover shoulders and knees). It’s an active place of worship, not just a photo op.
• Bargaining: In markets, bargaining is expected—but keep it friendly. Start at 50% of the asking price and meet in the middle. Don’t haggle over 5 RMB; it’s just rude.
• Language: Learn a few phrases: “Ni hao” (hello), “Xie xie” (thank you), “Duo shao qian?” (how much?). Locals will appreciate it, even if your tones are terrible.
• Toilets: Public restrooms are everywhere, but bring your own toilet paper. Squat toilets are common—don’t panic, just squat!

The Verdict: Why Xi’an Gets My “Visitor Approval”

By the end of my trip, I didn’t just see Xi’an—I got it. I got why the locals joke that “Xi’an has 3,000 years of history, and you can taste it in every bowl of noodles.” I got why the Terracotta Army doesn’t just look old—it feels alive, like those soldiers are still guarding something. I got why the city walls aren’t just a relic—they’re a symbol of how Xi’an honors its past while embracing the present.

So, is Xi’an worth visiting? Hell yes. But only if you go in with an open mind, empty stomach, and a willingness to get a little lost (the best food is always in the alleys you didn’t plan to visit). Trust me: you’ll leave with a full belly, a camera roll full of stories, and that same “visitor approval” I’m giving you now.

Now go book your ticket—and don’t forget to try the biang biang noodles. You won’t regret it.