First-Time in Xi’an: A Traveler’s Honest Guide to China’s Ancient Heart

I’ll admit it—I’d been dreaming of Xi’an for years. Not just because of the terracotta warriors (though, obviously, those were a big draw), but because it felt like a city where history wasn’t just displayed in museums—it was lived. As a first-time visitor to China, I was a mix of excited and nervous: excited to walk where emperors once ruled, nervous about navigating a place where my Mandarin skills (read: “hello,” “thank you,” and “where’s the bathroom?”) might fall short. But after a week of wandering, eating, and getting wonderfully lost, I can say this: Xi’an is one of the most welcoming, fascinating places I’ve ever been. If you’re planning your first trip, here’s the no-fluff, practical guide I wish I’d had—real help for real travelers, straight from someone who’s been there.

Getting There: From Airport to City (Without Panic)

First things first: how do you actually get to Xi’an? I flew into Xi’an Xianyang International Airport (XIY), which is about 45 minutes from the city center. Here’s what you need to know:

• Airport Express Bus: This is my top pick for first-timers. It’s cheap (around 25 RMB), reliable, and drops you off at major spots like the Bell Tower (Zhonglou) or Xi’an Railway Station. Just follow the signs for “机场大巴” (Airport Bus) outside baggage claim—staff in green vests can point you to the right line (Line 5 goes to the Bell Tower). The ride takes about an hour, and you’ll see the city transition from farmland to bustling streets.
• Metro: If you’re comfortable with subways, take Metro Line 14 from the airport to North Square of the Bell Tower (钟楼北). It’s 5.5 RMB, faster than the bus (30 minutes), and super clean. Pro tip: Download the “Metroman” app or screenshot a metro map—signs are in English, but it’s easy to get turned around in the transfer stations.
• Taxi/Ride-Hailing: Taxis are available outside, but always make sure the driver uses the meter. If they refuse, find another one. Ride-hailing apps like Didi (China’s Uber) work great if you have a Chinese phone number; if not, your hotel can help call a trusted cab. Expect to pay 80-120 RMB to the city center, depending on traffic.

Where to Stay: Pick a Neighborhood, Not Just a Hotel

Xi’an is huge, so picking the right neighborhood makes a huge difference. For first-timers, these three areas are your best bet:

• Near the Bell Tower/Drum Tower (Zhonglou/Gulou): This is the heart of the city. You’ll be within walking distance of the Muslim Quarter, the Bell Tower itself, and the Muslim Street. It’s lively, full of restaurants, and easy to get anywhere via metro. Downside? It can be noisy at night—pack earplugs if you’re a light sleeper. I stayed at a small hotel here for 200 RMB/night, and it was perfect: clean, central, and the front desk staff spoke enough English to help with maps.
• Near the Muslim Quarter (Huimin Jie): If you’re a foodie, stay here. The neighborhood is a maze of streets selling roujiamo (Chinese hamburgers), paomo (bread soup), and fresh pomegranate juice. Waking up to the smell of grilling lamb is unbeatable. Just be prepared—tourists swarm this area, so prices for hotels can be higher. Book in advance!
• Near the Big Wild Goose Pagoda (Dayan Ta): This area is quieter, more residential, and great if you want to escape the crowds. It’s a short metro ride to the city center, and there are lovely parks (like the Tang Paradise next to the pagoda) for evening strolls. Ideal if you’re planning a longer stay and want a more local vibe.

Can’t-Miss Attractions: Practical Tips for First-Timers

Xi’an has so many sights, but don’t try to do it all. Focus on these must-sees—and skip the tourist traps.

Terracotta Army (Bingmayong)

Let’s start with the obvious: the Terracotta Warriors. They’re incredible, but here’s how to make your visit actually good:

• Go Early: The gates open at 8:30 AM, and by 10 AM, it’s packed with tour groups. I arrived at 8:45 AM and had the pits almost to myself—magical.
• Hire a Guide (or Use an Audio Guide): Without context, the warriors just look like… well, clay soldiers. A guide (around 150 RMB for a small group) will tell you stories: how each warrior’s face is unique, how the army was buried for 2,000 years, how they were discovered by a farmer digging a well. Totally worth it.
• Visit All Three Pits: Pit 1 is the most famous (the main army), but Pit 2 (the cavalry) and Pit 3 ( the command center) are just as interesting. Don’t skip them!
• Getting There: Take Tourist Bus Line 5 from the train station (9 RMB, 1 hour) or Metro Line 9 to Huaqing Palace Station, then transfer to the shuttle bus (5 RMB). Taxis are also an option (around 80 RMB each way), but traffic can be bad.

Xi’an City Wall

The ancient city wall is one of Xi’an’s best features—you can walk, bike, or even rickshaw around it. Here’s the smart way to do it:

• Rent a Bike: The wall is 14 kilometers long, and biking lets you stop for photos whenever you want. Bikes cost 45 RMB for 3 hours (deposit required). Start at the South Gate (Yongning Men)—it’s the most accessible, and the views of the city are stunning from there.
• Go at Sunset: The light hits the old bricks just right, and you can see the city lights flicker on as it gets dark. Pro tip: Bring a jacket—evenings get chilly, especially in spring/fall.
• Don’t Bypass the South Gate Moat: The area around the South Gate is a park with a lake—you can paddle boats (30 RMB/hour) or just sit and watch locals dance. It’s a great break from wall-walking.

Muslim Quarter (Huimin Jie)

This isn’t just one street—it’s a labyrinth of alleys filled with food, shops, and mosques. Come hungry, and follow these rules:

• Eat Everything (But Be Smart): The Muslim Quarter is famous for street food, but some stalls overcharge tourists. Here’s what to try (and where):
  • Roujiamo (Chinese hamburger): Get it from a stall with a long line of locals—my favorite was near the Drum Tower, 10 RMB, stuffed with juicy, spiced pork.
  • Paomo (bread soup): Break a piece of unleavened bread into a bowl, then watch them pour lamb broth over it. Try the “Paomo Museum” near the mosque—it’s famous for this.
  • Pomegranate Juice: Xi’an is known for pomegranates, and the juice here is fresh and sweet (5 RMB/cup). Look for carts with whole pomegranates—they’ll squeeze it for you on the spot.
• Visit the Great Mosque (Qingzhen Si): It’s hidden in the middle of the quarter and one of the oldest mosques in China. Entrance is 25 RMB, and it’s beautiful—Chinese-style architecture with Islamic details. Go early in the morning to avoid prayer crowds.
• Beware of “Free” Tea: Locals might invite you to “try” tea, then charge you 200 RMB for a cup. Politely decline (“No, thank you!” works fine).

Shaanxi History Museum

If you love history, this museum is a must. It has over 370,000 artifacts, including Tang Dynasty pottery, bronze vessels, and—you guessed it—terracotta figures (smaller ones, but still amazing). Here’s the catch: tickets sell out fast.

• Book Online: Go to the museum’s official website or a platform like Trip.com 7 days in advance. They’re free, but you must reserve. I tried to walk up once and they were sold out for the day.
• Hire a Guide: The museum is huge, and a guide (100-150 RMB) will help you hit the highlights: the Tang murals, the “Forest of Steles” (though that’s a separate museum), and the bronze collection.
• Allow 3 Hours: Don’t rush—you’ll need time to appreciate the artifacts. The Tang Dynasty hall is my favorite; the gold and silver relics are breathtaking.

Food Beyond the Muslim Quarter

Xi’an’s food is a highlight, but don’t limit yourself to the tourist spots. Here are a few local favorites:

• Sángbǎo Fàn (Three Treasure Rice): A mix of rice, pork, and pickled vegetables, stir-fried in a huge wok. It’s cheap (15 RMB) and filling—try it near the university area (Xiaozhai).
• Yang Rou Paomo (Lamb Bread Soup): Different from the Muslim Quarter version—this one has thicker broth and more meat. Locals eat it for breakfast; my favorite spot was a tiny place called “Lao Sun Yang Rou Paomo” near the Bell Tower.
• Bingfeng Tang (Ice Cream Tanghulu): Not your average candied fruit! These are tanghulu (hawthorns on a stick) dipped in ice cream. Sweet, tangy, and perfect for a hot day. Find them near the South Gate.

Practical Tips That Actually Help

• Language: Don’t stress about Mandarin—most young people speak basic English, and Google Translate works well for signs. Download the app before you go (you’ll need a VPN for some features). A few phrases to learn: “Nǐ hǎo” (hello), “Xièxie” (thank you), and “Duōshao qián?” (how much?).
• Money: WeChat Pay and Alipay are everywhere—even street vendors use them. If you don’t have a Chinese bank account, bring cash (RMB) to exchange at the airport or banks (hotels often have bad exchange rates).
• Safety: Xi’an is very safe, but watch your stuff in crowded places like the Muslim Quarter. Taxis: always ask the driver to use the meter—if they refuse, get out.
• Weather: Xi’an has four distinct seasons. Spring (March-May) and fall (September-November) are best—mild and not too crowded. Summer (June-August) is hot (35°C+), and winter (December-February) is cold (-5°C), but the snow on the city wall is beautiful.

Final Thoughts

Xi’an isn’t just a city of ancient relics—it’s a place where you can eat a 2,000-year-old recipe, bike on a wall older than your country, and chat with a shopkeeper who’s sold spices their whole life. As a first-time visitor, I felt overwhelmed at first, but the city’s warmth (and really good food) won me over. My biggest piece of advice? Don’t just see the attractions—live them. Sit on the city wall at sunset, get lost in the Muslim Quarter’s alleys, and let a local teach you how to eat paomo the right way. That’s the real magic of Xi’an—and the best help any traveler can get.

Safe travels, and enjoy the journey—you’re in for a treat!